This is how to work with, not against, changing skin
While menopause will affect all women and people who menstruate at a certain point in their lives, we often still don't have enough conversations about this time of transition and the impact it can have on you. From menopausal hair loss to anxiety and mood fluctuations, there's a lot to be aware of – especially as, in some people, menopause symptoms, which can begin several years before the change itself, in a period known as the perimenopause, can start around the age 40 mark. Another alteration that often surprises people? Menopausal skin. Many women will notice their skin will start to become drier from their mid-40 to late-40s as they start to approach the menopause. As well as increased dryness, your skin’s steady decline in elastin will have also dropped significantly since your 20s, meaning you might notice sagging around the eyes, neck and cheeks — the areas where we naturally hold more fat. Wrinkles may appear deeper and falling oestrogen levels mean that dryness, sensitivity and redness can also become common problems. So if you're concerned about the effects menopause might be having on your skin, keep reading.
What does menopausal skin look like?
Our skin undergoes some huge changes during menopause. The average age of menopauseis around 51 and this has remained stable over many years. However, as we live longer, the average woman may spend up to one-third of her life in menopause. Clearly this is a huge amount of time, so it’s important to be aware of how it might affect you, including changes to your skin. Changes in skin throughout this period cannot be grouped together and will change over time. The key is to recognise symptoms. Often in the perimenopause phase, skin can become more sensitive, so you may need to avoid certain irritant ingredients in products. It's also common for women to experience an increase in adult female acne or pigmentation. There may be changes in the skin barrier, and changes here in the lipid layer can lead to water loss from the skin. In the dermis there is a reduction in hyaluronic acid, and collagen is lost. For some women, the slow-down in sebum production will come as a welcome relief – if they have suffered with hormonal acne, for example, for others the skin can feel very dry. Loss of collagen causes thinning and drying of the skin. Collagen acts as a humectant, absorbing a huge amount of water, so when collagen diminishes, there is less water in the skin.
What happens to your skin during menopause?
Reduction in collagen: Collagen levels in the skin fall by about 2.1% per year after the menopause. In the first 5 years of the menopause, 30% of dermal collagen has been lost. The skin itself becomes thinner, wound healing is delayed and the immune function of the skin is reduced. The skin becomes more vulnerable to both benign and cancerous growths so it’s a good idea to remain vigilant of any skin changes.
Falling oestrogen levels: Oestrogens are essential for skin function and play a number of roles. They increase the production of ‘ground substance’ of the skin such as hyaluronic acid. They also increase sebum, water retention and improve barrier function. Reduced oestrogen levels will affect all of these. Receptors for oestrogen are most abundant in body sites such as the face, genitals and lower limbs, therefore dryness in these areas is more common.
What are common skin conditions with menopause?
Aside from the dryness the hormonal fluctuations of menopause can also commonly trigger rosacea flares, which is very important to know, as rosacea skin may feel dry. However, this may not be real dryness, but a sign of microinflammation in the skin! One of the mechanisms of this is that in response to fluctuating and declining female sex hormones, there is an increased production of prostaglandins around menopause, which contributes to microinflammation and vasodilation (flushing and redness), and thus the tendency for rosacea.
What skincare is good for menopause?
This will depend on your specific skincare concern and how well your complexion tolerates intense active ingredients. such as retinols, but the advice that follows gives you some guidance on the ingredients to arm yourself with.
How should I look after menopausal skin?
Follow the advice below and give your skin the attention it will be craving during the menopause.
1. Hydrate
When skin lacks moisture it can also get quite dry, sensitive and itchy. Oestrogen levels fall significantly after the menopause, usually age 53 years, and this can result in dryness, redness, sensitivity and lack of skin firmness. Extra hydration is required to prevent excess water loss from the skin surface.
2. Use retinol
If you didn’t start a retinol earlier in life it’s not too late. Retinols alter the behaviour of aged cells so that they act in a more youthful way – regenerating at a faster rate. But they can also be drying on the skin at first, so if you’re a first-time user, start to gradually introduce a retinol-based night cream into your routine 2-3 times a week. Look for formulations with hydrating and soothing ingredients – like hyaluronic acid, glycerin and niacinamide. These are particularly helpful at mitigating any dryness and sensitivity that are associated with both first-time retinol use and menopausal skin.
3. Try peptides
Peptides are also great for menopausal skin as they will stimulate collagen production and boost the skin’s elasticity. Peptides are fragments of protein, and it’s these proteins that are the building blocks of the skin. They can signal collagen production in the skin – working as messengers between cells, triggering them to build more collagen and elastin, which in turn can boost skin’s youthful appearance.
4. Apply phytoestrogens
The biggest complaint my menopausal patients have is the loss of elasticity. As a gynecologist, I of course advise them about [genital area] skin, but that same loss of elasticity due to hormonal decline affects the skin of the face. Loss of elasticity shows as lines and wrinkles and a downward movement, changing the contours of the face. Phytoestrogens – molecules that are found in the reproductive part of the plant, the seed or root – mimic the effects of oestrogen and are effective to help replenish lost elasticity in the skin of the face. They are safe, natural and if formulated with potency can help replace what we lose naturally.
5. Use calming products
With the menopause comes a change in hormone levels which can trigger a hot and clammy complexion. Calming skincare products and face mists can be life saviours when you're having a hot flush or concerned about redness. If you're waking up during the night, it's a good idea to keep a refreshing, hydrating face mist by your bed and use this as a soothing spray to cool flushed skin.
6. Don't overload skin if you have rosacea
Overloading the skin with lipid rich products could trigger inflammatory rosacea lesions (red bumps on the skin called rosacea papules). The correct treatments for rosacea are steroid-free anti-inflammatory prescription creams which would calm the microinflammation and make the skin feel less uncomfortable and dry without the need to increase moisturisation. For that reason, I strongly recommend seeing a dermatologist for diagnosis and treatment of any observed changes that may indicated rosacea.
What skincare ingredients should be avoided during menopause?
If you're dealing with an oily breakout or spots during the menopause then they need to be dealt with decisively but gently: an aggressive, barrier-stripping approach with alcohol, glycolic acid toner or scrubs will make them worse. Purify skin twice daily with an alcohol-free polyhydroxy acid (PHA) or 2% salicylic acid toner or serum instead. You can also try hypochlorous acid. Apply an oil-free moisturiser on top.
Menopausal skincare for your body
It's not just the skin on your face that can suffer when going through the menopause. During menopause, as hormone levels plummet, the skin can become dry, slack, and thin. Use barrier-strengthening formulas to inject moisture back into your skin and avoid harsh fragrances that could disrupt your skin's natural pH or cause irritation.
Adapted from: WHM
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