The fungal fashion trend makes good, clean sense, but it’s struggling to become mainstream
Few organisms on this earth can boast the versatility of fungi. From decomposing organic matter to providing a multitude of medicinal and nutritional benefits to a horde of other species (including yours truly), fungi play a vital role in various ecosystems. Their biodiversity is remarkable, varying from the symbiotic mycorrhizal to the unyieldingly destructive chytrid. In recent years, they have made a surprising appearance in another diverse ecosystem, an industry just as enduring and multifaceted as the eukaryotes themselves: luxury fashion.
In the pursuit of more cruelty-free and sustainable practices (and branding), luxury fashion houses have been adapting a wide range of alternative materials in their manufacturing. These materials include recycled fabrics, innovative plant-based textiles, and synthetic leather. Gucci claims to strictly uphold a mandate of fur-free clothing and, in 2013, announced the establishment of an innovation lab that would be dedicated to researching and developing alternative fibers. In 2019, Prada announced their commitment to using recycled nylon known as Econyl in their bags. For its Fall 2022 line, Stella McCartney announced the brand’s first mushroom leather handbag. The material used in the handbag is made of mycelium, which is the root structure of mushrooms. In a controlled environment, fungus strains are mixed with water, starch, minerals and hydrogen peroxide, which prevents other cultures from forming. As the elaborate network of mycelium grows and rearranges its proteins and sugars, its threads fuse to form a dense foam-like material. This material, when flattened, offers a sustainable and biodegradable alternative to traditional leather.
Mimicking the texture and durability of animal leather, it briefly reigned as the up-and-coming eco-alternative for manufacturers, businesses, and consumers. In the boom of eco-leather, the material was manufactured by various companies and became known by many trademarked names: MuSkin, Reishi, Forager, and Mylo. There was a growing demand for sustainable and environmentally friendly options in the market and a reinvigorated enthusiasm for the future of ethical and sustainable fashion. Theoretically, the conditions were perfect: The fiber is biodegradable, unlike most vegan leather alternatives; it has the potential to reduce the carbon footprint of many businesses; its production yields high praise in terms of sustainability and can also be done without causing ecological harm to the planet’s best recyclers.
Overcollection would be a problem. But in these cases, the specimen is collected, isolated in pure culture, and then synthetically multiplied—not culled from the ecological population. Mycelium is the largest known organismal network known to man. It measures half the diameter of this galaxy. The temptation to make use of fungi’s vastness and remarkable renewability is a logical one, but this quest could be hindered by the nature of its less sustainable elements: Mass production. Earlier this year, Mylo manufacturer Bolt announced that it was pausing production. The startup, which had previously supplied Mylo to Stella McCartney, Adidas, and Kering, cited challenges in raising funds and scaling up production to meet the demands of the emerging technologies needed to keep up with the market. Eerily mimicking the speedy growth of mycelium itself, the demand for the material exceeded its own pace of production. In turn, the burden of cost then shifted to the consumer. In bulk, traditionally tanned leather can vary per square foot. Compared to the estimated square foot of mushroom leather, it’s easy to see where the industry struggles.
There is still optimism to be found in the future of fungus fibers. Forager makers, Ecovative, are continuing to benefit from the surge in interest in eco-materials but have not stopped there. The company specializes in not just one mycelium technology, but many. From plastic alternatives in protective packaging to minimally processed vegan meats. The company developed the technology behind turning farm-grown mycelium into an alternative to bacon. It seems that to be able to meet fast-growing demands and survive in the industry, makers of mushroom leather must fully take advantage of the seamless adaptability of mycelium fibers. This adaptability allows for the creation of various sustainable products, such as biodegradable furniture, construction materials, and even bio-fabricated organs. By harnessing the potential of mycelium technology, companies like Ecovative can continue to scale up, innovate, and provide eco-friendly alternatives to traditional products.
However, it is vital that the history of manufacturing not repeat itself. There is still a danger that these companies fall into the same trap of mass production, leading to excessive waste and more greenhouse gas emissions. Whatever happens, here’s hoping that fungi can become a little more mainstream shortly and that fungus will be at the heart of fashion for years to come.
Adapted from: Wired
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